5/13/2024 0 Comments Wood katana sheatheThe edges could also be made from prefab laths for model making. some Iron Age models).Īs you can see above, I have made edges too. When pieces of the lining become loose, and end up buried deep in a scabbard, it is basically ruined (unless it is detachable like e.g. When adding a lining that consists of multiple pieces, it is essential that they overlap downwards, in order to reduce the risk of the blade sliding between layers. I am using up some scrap material for these scabbards, so they will be partially lined with woolen fabric. Something that might be a comforting thought for battle re-enactors. A lining also holds together a snapped scabbard core from the inside, so you could still use it. But it does help to secure the sword, and it polishes the blade each time you draw or sheath it. A lining is not actually required for your blunt training sword. Here are the cut out halves for two scabbards which I made for two sharp swords.įor the lining of the scabbard mouth, I cut strips from sheepskin. I cut out each shape with a simple coping saw. However, in this case you still need some allowance for the raw edges to join when sandwiching the blade. You do not really need additional edges for blunt swords. The width of allowance depends on your choice of edge material (see below). This way I will know how to put in the blade for perfect fit. I will transfer the marks on the scabbard before obscuring them by montage, lining or facing, of course. Because no sword is perfectly symmetric, I also put marks on either side of the sword and the corresponding scabbard half. I mark the blade’s outline on each workpiece. The next day I repeat the process for the other half.Īfter removing the boards from the mould, they retain a gentle curve which is exactly what I want. However, this kind of fine tuning is not actually required at this point.įinally, I leave it to dry overnight. I also pushed a piece of wood under one end to fold up the boards on the side where the scabbard point will be situated later. I use additional clamps to join the boards' edges. The waister is kept in place by strings wound around the construction, and by bar clamps. I use a wooden training sword to evenly press them down. If you decide to use industrial wood glue (like I did here), make sure it is a water proof one. This is the negative form, or matrix.Īfter applying the glue, the two boards are now pressed into the gap. They are not exactly parallel to each other, so that the gap between them is slightly tapering to the lower end. To this end, I use a primitive mould consisting of but a wooden board with two wooden laths attached to it. The basic idea is that the two boards are glued together while bent to create a curved scabbard half. For wood species used for historical scabbards, take a look here, for example. I am sure there are comparable vendors elsewhere. I ordered according boards from this supplier for model making. You can, of course, leave out the textile and use leather as a stand-alone facing, but you do need at least one facing to provide stability and durability.įor each scabbard half you need two thin wooden boards, 1 mm thick each, about 10 cm wide and at least as long as your final scabbard. The core is covered with textile (mandatory), and finally with leather (optional). Below I have marked the ones that are optional.įrom inside to outside, you see a fur lining (optional), the wooden core consisting of two-ply wood (mandatory) and additional lath edges (optional), plus a wooden strip as a raiser (optional). your modern HEMA training sword, you do not need all these components. For a scabbard that it is not intended for re-enactment display but simply to sheath and protect e.g. Here is a cross section through a discarded scabbard I made, revealing its construction. If you want to add an additional leather facing, follow this tutorial. The scabbard core in the title image is faced with linen. Once you have added a facing, the final result will be indistinguishable from an authentically made one. If you want to make a wooden sword scabbard but shy away from carving it from solid wood ( like I did here), there is an alternative way to create a slim and elegant scabbard core.
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